Peptides in cosmetics have been generating a lot of interest in the world of dermatology and cosmetology for years. Their unique properties mean that they are becoming increasingly key ingredients in advanced skin care products. The purpose of using peptides is not only to improve the structure of the skin, but also to stimulate its natural regenerative processes and prevent premature aging. Find out what peptides are, how they work and what you can use to improve the quality of your skin.
What are peptides in cosmetics? Definition and meaning in cosmetology
Peptides are short chains of amino acids – the basic building blocks of proteins. Structurally, they can be considered smaller forms of proteins that perform several important functions in the body. In cosmetology, their ability to influence processes occurring in the skin, including collagen synthesis, elastin, and other supporting proteins responsible for the elasticity, firmness and youthful appearance of the skin, is particularly interesting.
Peptides can stimulate skin cells to rebuild, prevent the formation of wrinkles or support regeneration. It is worth emphasizing that not all compounds referred to as peptides have the same effect – their structure, the length of the amino acid chain and the ability to penetrate deep into the skin are key.
Classification of peptides in cosmetics
1. Signal peptides
Signal peptides in cosmetics are responsible for sending stimuli to skin cells to increase the production of collagen and elastin. They are widely used in anti-aging preparations that are supposed to slow down the formation of wrinkles and improve the structure of the skin. An example of a signal peptide is Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl), well known in many advanced anti-aging cream formulas.
2. Carrier peptides
Carrier peptides (also known as transport peptides) help to penetrate active substances into the deeper layers of the skin. Their function is to bind microelements, such as copper, and deliver them to places where they can help in the healing process or collagen synthesis. A good example is copper peptides, which are appreciated in the care of mature skin or skin damaged by external factors. A popular product is GHK-Cu.
3. Enzymatic peptides in cosmetics
Enzymatic peptides are a group of compounds that modulate the activity of enzymes in the skin. They can, among other things, inhibit the enzymes responsible for the breakdown of collagen, which slows down the aging process. In practice, this means inhibiting the formation of fine lines and maintaining smooth skin for a longer period of time.
4. Immunomodulatory peptides
Immunomodulatory peptides affect the skin’s immune system, supporting its natural protective barrier. Thanks to this, the skin is more resistant to external factors (e.g. UV radiation or environmental pollution), and at the same time it regenerates more easily after micro-damage and inflammation.
How do peptides impact the skin? Mechanisms of action
Impact on collagen synthesis
Collagen is the most important structural protein of the skin, responsible for its elasticity, firmness and youthful appearance. With age, the body produces less and less collagen, which results in skin sagging, wrinkles and a decrease in its density. Peptides can imitate natural processes occurring in the body, giving a signal for skin cells to intensify collagen production. This action means that systematic use of cosmetics with peptides can delay the effects of aging.
Stimulating repair processes
The mechanism of rebuilding damage in the skin involves, among other things, cell migration and the secretion of growth factors. Peptides with regenerative action accelerate the healing of minor wounds or micro-damages. In cosmetology, they are often used after aesthetic medicine treatments (e.g. microneedling) to maximize the effects of therapy and shorten the recovery time.
Inhibition of inflammatory factors
It is worth mentioning immunomodulatory peptides, which can regulate inflammatory skin reactions. Excessive inflammation can cause discoloration, irritation or accelerated aging. By using peptides, you can take care of the balance in the skin, avoiding the adverse effects associated with chronic inflammation.
Firming and moisturizing effect
Some peptides can retain water in the epidermis, which translates into better skin hydration. When the skin is well hydrated, it becomes more elastic and less susceptible to damage. For this reason, cosmetic formulas based on peptides often combine a firming effect with intensive hydration.
Use of peptides in different types of cosmetics
1. Face and eye creams
Due to their clear anti-wrinkle benefits, peptides are the most popular in face and eye creams. Both areas are particularly susceptible to rapid aging – the skin around the eyes is thin, delicate, and devoid of a natural fat layer. Therefore, peptide-enriched preparations can significantly improve the appearance of the skin, reducing the so-called crow’s feet and reducing puffiness.
2. Serums and ampoules
Serum and ampoule formulas are characterized by a higher concentration of active ingredients than creams. Peptides in the form of serums penetrate the skin faster, which allows for better and more targeted results. Professional beauty salons especially use advanced peptide cocktails, applied during or after treatments (e.g. microneedle mesotherapy).
3. Eye masks and patches
Sheet masks, hydrogel eye patches or any deeply moisturizing masks are ideal carriers of peptides. Because they adhere tightly to the skin for a certain period of time, the active ingredients have a chance to work longer. The effect? Immediate smoothing of the epidermis and brightening of the complexion.
4. Body and hair cosmetics
Although peptides are more popular in the context of facial care, they are also used in body lotions and hair products. They can make the skin all over the body more elastic and resistant to external factors. In the case of hair, peptides strengthen the hair shaft, rebuild damaged mechanical and facilitate regeneration after hairdressing treatments.
Example peptides used in cosmetology and their effects
Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4)
Matrixyl is one of the most popular peptide formulas in cosmetology, the result of research on the effective stimulation of collagen production in the skin. It has been clinically proven that regular use of Matrixyl can support epidermal regeneration, contributing to a visible reduction of wrinkles, especially around the eyes and mouth. The argument for the effectiveness of this peptide is its ability to stimulate fibroblasts to synthesize collagen type I and III – key proteins responsible for maintaining skin elasticity and flexibility. This action translates into smoothing the skin surface, as well as improving the overall appearance and texture of the skin. Clinically, Matrixyl, when used at concentrations of 3-5%, is considered to provide long-term benefits in anti-aging prophylaxis, although monitoring skin sensitivity in those prone to irritation is recommended.
GHK-Cu (Copper Peptide)
Peptide GHK-Cu, or tripeptide complex glycyl-histidyl-lysine with copper ion, has gained fame in regenerative medicine. In cosmetology, its ability to stimulate repair processes in the skin is used, which translates into increased synthesis of collagen, elastin and other components of the extracellular matrix. It has been clinically confirmed that GHK-Cu promotes tissue renewal by stimulating angiogenesis and inhibiting inflammatory factors. As a result, it not only has an anti-wrinkle effect, but also supports the healing of micro-damages or acne scars. The combination with copper (Cu) additionally allows the skin to benefit from its antioxidant properties, which can reduce oxidative stress and support tissue balance. Due to its strong regenerative effect, the GHK-Cu peptide is often a component of professional anti-aging treatments, mesotherapy treatments or care for mature skin and skin exposed to free radicals.
Epitalon (Epithalon)
Epithalon, also known as Epithalon, is a synthetic tetrapeptide that was created as a result of research on the effect of telomere length on the aging process of the body. Medical literature indicates that Epitalon may stimulate the activity of telomerase – an enzyme that is key to maintaining the proper length of telomeres, which in turn is associated with slowing down the cellular aging process. Although most reports mainly concern studies on in vitro and in vivo models (with the participation of animals), in the cosmetic context Epitalon is sometimes used in advanced products with a potential rejuvenating effect. The aim of these formulations is to optimize the skin’s regenerative capacity, improve the elasticity of the epidermis and generally strengthen the protective barrier. It should be noted, however, that due to the specificity and limited number of studies in the human population, the use of Epitalon in cosmetic preparations requires a careful approach. Monitoring of possible allergic reactions or irritations, especially in relation to home products or outside the control of specialist offices.
Snap-8 (Acetyl Octapeptide-3)
Snap-8 is a modified peptide consisting of eight amino acids, which gained popularity due to its mechanism of action similar to the so-called “neuromodulating peptides” (including Argireline/Acetyl Hexapeptide-8). The taskSnap-8 is a partial blocking of the release of neurotransmitters responsible for micro-contractions of facial muscles. Thanks to this, facial wrinkles, especially those formed around the eyes, on the forehead or between the eyebrows, can be reduced – the skin becomes smoother and facial features less tense. An argument worth noting from a clinical perspective is the fact that Snap-8, compared to classic botulinum toxin, does not cause muscle paralysis, but only relaxes them. Although the effect is more subtle and requires regular application in care products, the smoothing effect can be noticeable with longer use. Snap-8 is often combined with other anti-wrinkle substances, which allows for a comprehensive anti-aging treatment without the risk of significant side effects.
Choosing depending on the goal
In the context of the clinical use of peptides such as Matrixyl, GHK-Cu, Epitalon or Snap-8, it is worth emphasizing the growing interest in their versatile potential in the field of skin care and aesthetic medicine. Although each of the above-mentioned compounds works on different biochemical pathways, they are primarily united by the ability to:
- Stimulate collagen production – essential for maintaining smoothness and firmness of the skin (Matrixyl, GHK-Cu).
- Regulate repair processes – which results in faster regeneration and reduced inflammation (GHK-Cu, partially Epitalon).
- Influence on muscle activity – leading to reduction of facial wrinkles (Snap-8).
- Strengthening of cellular structures – by supporting telomerase (Epitalon), although in this area further research on safety and efficacy in humans is still needed.
How to choose cosmetics with peptides?
1. Pay attention to the concentration and types of peptides
The mere presence of peptides in the composition is not enough – their concentration and specific type are crucial. Many brands provide specific percentage amounts, which allows you to assess the real effectiveness of the formula. It is a good idea to reach for products in which peptides are placed at the beginning or middle of the INCI list of ingredients.
2. Choose proven manufacturers
There are many brands on the market that use peptides. It is worth looking for those that publish research results and declare the laboratory purity of their ingredients. On our website, you will find high-quality peptides that have enjoyed excellent reviews for many years. … However, it is always worth paying attention to the compatibility of the ingredients – for example, not all formulas with retinol tolerate high pH or the presence of strongly exfoliating acids.
Synergy of peptides with other active ingredients
Hyaluronic acid
Peptides and hyaluronic acid is a perfect duo. The first ones stimulate collagen reconstruction and repair, and HA takes care of maintaining moisture in the skin. Such synergy translates into improved skin elasticity, smoothing wrinkles and increasing resistance to harmful environmental factors we.
Retinol
Retinol is a powerful ally in the fight against signs of aging and imperfections. Together with peptides, it creates advanced formulas that work comprehensively: stimulate cell renewal, brighten discolorations and firm. However, it is worth remembering to introduce retinol gradually to avoid irritation.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C has strong antioxidant properties and protects skin cells from damage caused by free radicals. Used together with peptides, it contributes to even stronger stimulation of collagen production and also brightens the complexion, giving it a radiant appearance.
Potential side effects and contraindications
1. Irritations and allergies
Although peptides are usually well tolerated, people with very sensitive skin may experience an allergic reaction. Therefore, before introducing a new product, it is worth performing an allergy test by applying a small amount of the cosmetic to the skin behind the ear or on the forearm.
2. Choosing too high a concentration
Higher concentrations do not always mean better results. Formulas that are too intense can cause irritation, especially if used with other strong active ingredients. It is important to gradually introduce products into your skincare routine and observe your skin’s reactions.
3. Inadequate supportive care
Peptide cosmetics should often be combined with proper cleansing, tonification and moisturizing. Failure to take these steps may result in poorer absorption of peptides and reduced long-term effects.
The Future of Peptides in Cosmetology
The cosmetics market is developing dynamically, and peptides are becoming more widely used. Research is underway on new peptide formulas that are to ensure even more effective penetration into the skin and longer-lasting effects. With the advancement of nanotechnology, peptides will be able to more precisely affect specific cells or biochemical processes. The emergence of new types of peptides is also predicted, which will ultimately be used in non-standard areas of aesthetic medicine – e.g. in therapies supporting the treatment of acne or as support in the healing of acne scars.
Summary
The use of peptides in cosmetics is one of the most promising directions in skin care. Thanks to advanced stimulating, protective and regenerative properties, peptides are a valuable tool in the fight against premature aging, loss of firmness or skin imperfections. When choosing products rich in peptides, it is worth paying attention to the concentration, types of compounds and their combination with other active substances.
The modern consumer expects solutions that are modern, safe, and supported by research. Peptides fit perfectly into these requirements. Their synergistic action with other key ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, retinol, or vitamin C, opens up wide prospects in the field of skin care and rejuvenation. In the future, we can expect further innovations, further development of carrier technologies and higher bioavailability of ingredients. All this means that peptides occupy an increasingly important position in modern cosmetics, and their popularity among professionals and consumers is constantly growing.